Dark Eyes and Lips 

Equipment Needed:

• Eyeshadow Primer
• Eyeshadows - Green, Blue and Black
• Mascara
• Disposable Mascara Wands
• Flat Brush
• Small Blending Brush
• Large Blending Brush
• Gel Eyeliner and Eyeliner Brush
• Lipliner
• Lipstick 
• Lip Brush
• Concealer and concealer brush
• Lip Primer (Optional)

Step By Step for Eyes:

1. Firstly start by applying an eyeshadow primer as this will help to intensify the eyeshadows and will prevent the eye makeup from creasing.
2. Once the primer has been applied start by using a matt green shadow in the crease to act as a transition colour - this will help the other eyeshadows to blend better.
3. After the transition colour has been applied. Apply a green/blue shimmer eye shadow at the inner part of the lid - this will bring light to the eye.
4. Using a darker shade of green and using a small blending brush begin blending this into the crease follow this will a little black eyeshadow - this will help to make it look smokey.
5. With a clean fluffy brush blend everything together until it looks seamless. 
6. (Optional) Apply a black gel eyeliner to the upper lash line.
7. Finish off with a couple of generous coats of black mascara - make sure to use a disposable wand.

Step By Step for Lips:

1. (Optional) Apply and thin layer of a lip primer as this will help to prevent the lipstick from feathering/bleeding.
2. To create a crisp line start by lining the models lips as this again will help to prevent bleeding and also will give a nice base for the lipstick - Make sure to sharpen the lip pencil as this will help with the application process.
3. Using a lip brush apply the lipstick.
4. To clean up any dodgy lines use a bit of concealer on a concealer brush to fix any mistakes.

Personal Analysis 

I really enjoyed creating this look as I personally love applying eyeshadow and creating new looks. I think I did a good job with the eyeshadow as the eyeshadow was well blended and had a gradient. One thing I think I need to improve on is using lipliner because looking at the images again I think I could have been slightly neater.

Contemporary Victorian Hairstyle  (Inspired by American Horror Story)

Equipment Needed: 

• Tail Comb
• Paddle Brush
• Bobby Pins
• Curling tongs

Step By Step:

1. Create a side parting using a tail comb make sure there is a little lift at the roots.
2. Beginning at the front, take two one inch sections on the side of the parting, on the other side take three one inch sections and curl them away from the parting. Each sections needs to be the width of the curling tong.
3. Secure each curl with a bobby pin, as this will help to set the curl and will make it last longer.
4. Now curl the section behind the front curls and curl horizontally downwards.
5. Then take a section below that of about t six inches wide, split it into two, and curl both section
6. Repeat the last step below this section created above
7. Curl the hair in three inch wide sections the rest of the way down the middle of the head
8. Curl the rest of the hair at the sides in sections, going downwards, and secure them all with hair grips. These curls are curled towards the face

Up Do - Inspired by Moira O'Hara (Maid)

1. Once all the hair has been curled and has been pinned to cool down, remove the bobby pins at the top of the head.
2. Using a paddle lightly brush through the curls
3. Begin by twisting the hair upwards until it falls perfectly.
4. Use bobby pins to hold the wave - make sure to use them discreetly. 
5. Use a tail comb to lift the hair to add my body and volume.
6. Take all the bobby pins out from the rest of the curls.
7. Take the hair grips out of the curls at the front of the hair and pull the curls out individually to them push them back into the hair to create a wave against the head, and then pin them in place with hair grips.
8. Layer the curls on top of each other to give more body.

Down-do

1. Use a paddle brush to brush out the curls, using a over and under motion to get big, smooth curls to form. 
2. Push the front sections, on both sides of the parting, back so that the hair goes back and then curls back on itself, giving a very glamorous look. 
3. Play around with how the hair falls until you get it how you want it, e.g sweep the top sections down and forwards, and help clump sections together that curl the same direction. 
4. Back comb the roots if any extra volume is desired. 
5. Add a bit of wax or shine spray to your fingers and smooth it over the ends to give a more polished finish.

Personal Analysis

I found this a real challenge however I really enjoyed learning how to create these looks. For me it definitely took quite a bit of time as I found it difficult and I did have some problems. But overall I'm really happy with the turn out and I will be definitely trying some of these looks on myself. 

Using Moulds to make Wounds and Light Scarring

Equipment Needed:
-Gelatine
-Wound moulds
-Release spray/Vaseline
-Fixer spray
-Pros Aide
-Pros Aide remover
-Witch hazel
-Cotton buds
-Bowl
-Powder brush
-Loose translucent powder
-Small angled brush
-Supra colour palette
-Thick Blood
-Liquid Blood

Step by step:

Creating the prosthetics using a mould:

1. Clean the moulds fully and make sure they are dry before applying
2. Apply a thin layer of release spray onto the mould.
3. Heat up the gelatine and put it into the moulds, making sure they don't overlap each other and that the top of flat.
4. Once the mould has fully set, take it out of the mould and cut it down to the right size.

Applying the Prosthetic piece from the mould:

1. Apply some pros aide, with a cotton bud, to both the wound and the skin, as it is a contact adhesive.
2. Wait until the pros aide drys and goes clear.
3. Press the wound onto the skin and hold firmly to secure it.
4. Apply more pros aide around the edges if necessary.
5. Put some witch hazel in a bowl and, using a cotton bud, rub the witch hazel backwards and forwards along the edges of the wound to melt away the edges and make them look more seamless.
6. Powder well over the top of the wound with some translucent powder and a powder brush.
7. Use a small angled brush and your fingers to apply the supra colour on the wound to suit what look you are trying to achieve.
8. Add some thick blood and liquid blood to the wound to make it look more freshly cut.

Consultation

NAME - Taz Edwards

AGE - 19

HAIR TYPE, NATURAL, COLOUR OR DYED - Fine thick hair with coloured ends

SKIN TYPE - Combination Dry

SKIN TONE - Yellow undertones

EYE COLOUR/SHAPE - Brown eyes and oval eye shape

ALLERGIES/MEDICATION - N/A

CONTRAINDICATIONS - N/A

NOTES 

How to create an Early Victorian Hair Style 

Equipment Needed:

• Tail Comb
• Paddle Brush
• Bobby Pins
• A Hair tie
• Small Curling Tongs
• Sectioning Clips

Step by Step 

  

1. Using a paddle brush, brush through the hair to make sure hair is smooth and tangle free.
2. Using a tail comb create a middle parting. 
3. For the Bun at the back, section upwards from the back of the ear. Should be left with two separate sections one at the front and one at the back. 
4. With the back section use a hair tie to secure the loose hair into a high/middle ponytail.
5. With the ponytail wrap round to create a simple bun.
6. With the front two sections which are separated in the middle, start with the one section and flatten it down until you reach the ear then begin to plait all the way down to the end of the section and pin into the bun,
7. With the other section, begin by section a small long piece and clip the end of the hair into the curling tong. Roll up the hair shaft so that the tip of the tong is facing the ceiling. Continue this three times. 
8. Make sure your curling towards the face. The curls should look like long sausages. 

 

Consultation Notes

NAME - Grace Donnelly

AGE - 22

HAIR TYPE, COLOUR, NATURAL OR DYED - Long, Blonde, fine and Highlighted

SKIN TYPE - Dry

SKIN TONE - Yellow undertones

EYE COLOUR/SHAPE - Blue Eyes and oval eye shape

ALLERGIES/MEDICATION - N/A

CONTRADICTION - N/A

NOTES 

Estella Timed Assessment 

Comparison of Miss Havisham Continuity 

I didn't find the make up part to difficult to make look the same, however when looking at the images we have to take into consideration the lighting as you can definitely see a difference in the colour of the burnt part - one is very red toned and the other is quite dark red. I think I pretty much got the silicone piece in exactly the same place and the colouring is quite similar. I think the non burnt is nearly exactly the same the only difference is the tone of the foundation but apart from that the eyebrows are the same and the contouring is too.

 As you can see from both these images there are quite a few differences. The one on the left is the first time and the one of the right is my continuity. I found this quite difficult to get them exactly the same. As you can see the two large rolls at the bottom of the hairstyle aren't the same size or positioning as the other image this was due to me not leaving a bigger enough section for the bottom part. I think the loose curls are pretty much in the same place and also I think the bun is very similar.

Estella Practice 

I decided I wanted to re create Estella from an early age, so the make up was very subtle I wanted it to show off her natural beauty (English Rose) The hair I decided to create a late Victorian hairstyle as Estella would have worn hairstyles similar.

Final Hair Design

Final Face Chart - Makeup

Second Practice of Miss Havisham Design - Development

I created this 3rd Degree Silicone Piece on myself
First then I added to it to fit Grace's Face

Step By Step of Miss Havisham 

Make up Design

Equipment Need:

• Supracolour Palette
• Palette and Spatula
• 3rd Degree
• Spirit Gum/Remover
• Kryolan foundation Palette
• Foundation Brush/Eye shadow Brush/Angled Brush
• Blood 
• Bruise Wheel

Step By Step:

1. First Start by cleansing, toning and moisturizing your Model.
2. Place a wrap on your model in order not to dirty your they're clothing.
3. Using the spirit gum start brushing it on the back of the silicone piece - then wait for it to get tacky. 
4. Begin to place on Model's face - using more spirit gum if needed.
5. Once the silicone piece is securely placed on, create a mixture of 3rd Degree and seal in the edges.
6. If needed add more blood or colour.
7. Then on to the other side of the face - create a mixture using a small part of white supracolour and black supracolour and mix it with a larger amount of Kryolan's palest foundation shade.
8. Once you've got the desired colour apply the foundation making sure to go down the neck and also ears. 
9. Using the purple shade from the Supracolour begin to contour your model. 
10. Use the same shade of purple on the eyelid, inner part of the eye and down the smile lines.
11. Use the white supracolour on a disposable mascara wand and coat onto models eyelashes
12. On the eyebrows use a mixture of white and black supracolour to fill them in. 
13. On the lips use whatever is left on the foundation brush and smudge onto the lips. 

How to Theatrical Ageing Face and Hands

Equipment Need:

• Supracolour Palette
• Foundation Brush
• Illamasqua White Skin Base
• Kryolan Foundation Palette
• Stipple Sponge

Step By Step

1. Start by making sure your Models face is moisturized as this will ensure all the products that are going to be used blend well.
2. Apply a base to your model's face - chose a shade lighter than normal.
3. With your supra colour palette mix some colours to get a brown/grey colour
4. Ask your model to scrunch up their face s as this will help you to find wrinkles - use the supra colour mix in the wrinkles round the forehead, eyes, mouth, nose and cheeks.
5. Apply the supra colour with a fine eyeshadow brush as this will help with precision - use you fingers to blend any harsh lines.
6. With a the white supra colour underline the fake wrinkles as this will help to make them stand out even more. 
7. Use a disposable mascara wand dipped into a grey/white colour and use this over the eyebrows.
8. With a stipple sponge dip it into the red/pink supra colour and stipple this onto the cheeks - this will give the effect of broken veins on the cheeks.

Personal Analysis 

I think for my first time doing theatrical ageing it went good. However looking at the pictures I wish I'd blended some of the fake wrinkles out a little more as they look very harsh unrealistic. I'm going to keep practicing this as I'd like to try and make it look more real next time.

Theatrical Ageing Hands

Equipment Needed:

• Old age stipple
• Kryolan Foam Barrier
• Mixing Bowl
• Disposable sponge
• Hair Dryer

Step By Step

1. Apply a small amount of Kryolan Foam Barrier on to Models hand to protect the skin.
2. Pour the old age stipple into a mixing bowl - don't need a lot
3. Stretch the models hand and begin to stipple the old age stipple on the hand with a disposable sponge
4. Use a hair dryer (on the cool setting) to dry the old age stipple.
5. Keep applying more layers until the desired look.

How to create a Late Victorian Hairstyle

Equipment Needed:

• Hair Tie
• Bobby Pins
• Small Curling Tong
• Sectioning Clips
• Dry Shampoo
• Rat Tail Comb

Step By Step

1. Start by parting the hair down the middle using your Rat tail comb.
2. Then section from the back of the ear up all the way to the other side of the head. 
3. With the front section create two sections on either side of the center parting.
4. With the back section create a 'V' shape and pull the hair into a high ponytail.
5. Using the small curling tongs begin to curl small sections of the ponytail - making sure to tuck the ends of the hair into the curling tong.
6. With the curled sections pin them around the pony tail.
7. Use the small curling tongs to sausage curl the rest of the hair remaining below the pony tail.
8. Begin to pin the side sausage curls near the ponytail - leave the middle long curls but separate them slightly with your fingers.
9. At the front part of the head start with one section and begin with three sections and curl them vertically facing into the head. - Do this on the other side section too.
10. With the two front sections brush them separately together and smooth them over to the ponytail area is - do this on both sides. (It should look like a big soft wave)

Optional

• You could add decorative accessories such as fake flowers or ribbons.
• Also to make the hair appear grey, spray dry shampoo or colored hairspray. 

 Personal Analysis

For my first attempt of a Late Victorian Hairstyle I don't think it's too bad. I'm going to keep practicing creating sausage curls as mine weren't very neat. I found it difficult to make the ponytail part look neat a tidy. Overall I think I could do with more practice.

Black Eyes and Wounds

Black Eye

Equipment Needed:

• Supracolour
• Vaseline
• disposable sponge

Step By Step 

1. Firstly you will need a Photo of a real Black eye as this will help you follow what colours to use as this will make it more realistic.
2. I mixed from my supra colour palette yellow, red, purple and blue - with a eye shadow brush/sponge to stipple the mixture around the eye.
3. Once it looks similar to your inspiration photo apply a small amount of Vaseline to the fake bruise to make it look shiny.

 Personal Analysis 
 My Bruise looked more like an old bruise rather than a new one. I definitely feel I need to keep practicing creating this look as I personally don't think it looks that realistic. Next time I think I will follow my inspiration photo better so it looks more realistic.

 Wounds 

Equipment Needed:

• Liquid Dark Blood
• Latex
• Supra colour Palette
• Spatula
• Plasto
• Cleanser
• Kryolan foundation Palette
• Wound Filler

Step By Step 

1. Start off with your models hand clean. 
2. Scoop out some Plasto a place onto the hand, using your spatula begin to smooth out the edges - roll out the plasto into a sausage.
3. Once all the edges are smooth and you have your desired shape, use a pin or spatula to cut the wax where you want the wound to be.
4. Using a baby bud and some liquid latex spread this over the wax - to set the wax in place. Then dry with hair dryer on the cool setting.
5. Using the same mixture used for the bruise stipple this onto the fake wound.
6. With the wound filler place this in the middle of the wound.
7. Use the liquid blood in side the wound to give a realistic look.

Personal Analysis

I really enjoyed making this wound and I think it looked quite realistic, I definitely going to keep practicing this. I think next time I'd like to add puss so it looks infected and also some scratches on the knuckles and around the wound.